22 Aug 2018

.Chapter Six: The eternal magic of the land of fire - Azerbaijan.

Kids, don’t do what I did. Do not fly with Ukrainian International Airlines and do not fly from Lviv airport.
First they would not have any of those resealable bags for liquids to take or to buy and information did
not seem to care. If you don’t have it, tough luck. Then they would not let you board the plane with
trekking poles and force you to buy an expensive last minute check-in baggage, which by the way takes
forever [I think I had to wait for about 40 minutes in a queue of total maybe 5 people]. On top of that,
of course they were late, baggage was very slow and they broke one piece of my pole (still functions
fully, so at least I have that going for me), which is, of course, my own responsibility [somehow].


And then Baku. Oh, Baku, you magnificient beast! I have learned from my mistake of Kiev airport
struggles to find a way to get to my hostel that this time I booked a “shuttle”, which is really just a fancy
way of saying that I had a pre-called taxi waiting for me. Shout out to the driver, because he was nice,
but did not speak [I am not big on small talk] and let me enjoy my ride. Baku surprised me, because i
nstead of all sorts of nothing I was almost blinded by the lights. Skyscrapper here, skyscrapper there,
futuristic looking building here, some huge building other there. It did not look like Azerbaijan I was
expecting, more like one of the Arabic cities, like Dubai [never been, sure, but will be in a month, will
compare].


The next day I head out to see this wonder called Baku. It is impressing! I walked the huge very nicely
and tidy kept boulevard along the coast line, I checked out the old town, which reminded me a bit of
Turkey but was also very cute and in the end I went to the Heydar Aliyev Center, an arts sorf of place
with temporary exhibitions and very nice park right next to it.


On my way home I passed by the market, bought some tomatoes and cucumbers and made myself
one of the better tasting salad ever [or maybe I was just hungry? No, tomatoes were very super juicy
and full of taste]. I went to bed quite early then. The heat and the flying and coming in the town late made
me kind of tired.


The next day was not my day. It’s been three weeks on a road and today for the first time (on this trip I
may add, just to make it NOT sound too optimistic), some old creep tried to “feel me”. Way to go
Azerbaijan! Okay, I am being too harsh. Normally Azeri people were nothing but nice to me. My shuttle
from the airport was nothing is not a sweetheart. He did not try to engage in small talk, just drove the
speed limit and smiled when saying goodbye. Another guy paid for my ticket in a bus, because I did not
have a card I needed to have. Even today [jumping ahead of time], I sat next to a couple on a bench
[separate bench, but close by], so I said hello and started reading a book. A guy went away for a minute
and came back with three cold drinks - for him and his girlfriend and me. No asking money, no nothing,
he just from his own nicety bought me a drink, because it was a hot day. I did not know these people
existed! But anyways, the creep. I was in a bus and he sat next to me, normal. Then I was thinking that
he is keeping his hand oddly between him and me, that cannot be uncomfortable, still did not think
anything of it. But it’s a bumpy ride and that hand keeps moving [as we all are]. I thought I felt him
trying to touch me, but I may have been wrong [you are not going to start accusing people if you
are not sure, right?]. But I kept me eyes on him. The second time he did that I looked at his face,
he was pretending to be sleeping, of course, the fucker. Third time it was going to happen, I was
gonna slap his hand or say something [even if this is not my country and men definitely have
priority over women here], no old farting creep will touch me. But luckily for him [or me], he got
off at the next stop.


Unfortunately my bad luck with creeps did not end there. Another weirdo, young one sat next to me on
a bench in a park while I was reading a book and first started talking about his family, then how much
he likes me and loves me and how much he wants to kiss. And how he likes older woman. What is it
about me, that makes creeps think: this one, I will harrass this one?


Anyways, besides that, my day was pretty OK. In the morning I went to Gobustan, a place with ancient
pictures on the rocks [dating about 40k years before today]. It was nice, but I definitely expected it to be
better. In the afternoon I went to a carpet museum [yes, carpet]. It was interesting, since Azeris are very
famous for their hand made carpets, and I learned that kilim [kilimas in Lithuanian] is just a type of carpet,
not ALL of the carpets. Apparently. Not sure how the rest would be called.


In the evening I found a friend! A german guy, who is younger than me, and very talkative, but he likes
beer, so we spent the whole evening just sitting in a balcony talking talking talking over the beers. With
other people in hostel being from China [language barrier], or muslim/arabic countries [views differences],
we really hit it off.


Third and my last day in Baku I mainly spent in a bus. Well, many buses, but kept riding back and forth.
There are quite a few things to see not far from Baku, but you need to go to Koroglu metro station, there
is a bus station for rural areas on that side of Baku and you then take a bus to your destination. Then you
go back and take another bus, to another of your desired destinations. This is what I did. First destination
- fire temple. It’s an old’ish hindu temple with the fire burning in the middle of it. It’s not “to die for”, but it’s
nice. There I met four guys from the hostel, so we headed back to Koroglu and from there took another
bus to some castle. We were going through oil fields which you are not allowed to take pictures of [and
which we of course did], and unpleasant surprise when we got there - it was closed. But soon enough the
guy shows up with a key, let’s us in for around 6 EUR, locks the gate again, gives us a key and tell us to
enjoy. We did. We climbed the wall and we climbed the tower [not very safe both, but we managed not to
scrape any knees or necks] and then headed back. Two guys took off and the rest of us went to the “fire
mountain” or how to call that place, where there is about 10 meters length of burning fire coming just out
of the mountain. Again, not something to DIE for, but interesting enough. And the evening once again, I
spent with my new found german friend in a balcony talking until maybe 1a.m.


The next destination - Quba. I have been hearing many good things about it and honestly - it’s all crap.
It’s nothing special that Quba [maybe for it’s thousands of types of apples it is, but now is not the season
and so it is not]. But I did not know that so I went. I got there and got a taxi driver offer me a place at his
house [a separate room that they rent]. It was a quite old and poor house and I kind of felt bad for the
people, but what can I do? Otherwise they really reminded me of a Lithuanian village, where man works
and at home he gets served tea and food and does nothing else and woman does everything around the
house.


So in Quba I saw a synagogue, two mosques, an old hamam and a park [nicely made and clean, I
have to say]. The next day I have hired the same taxi driver to take me to Khinaliq. This place is not
very special, but it is interesting village in the mountains. The drive to there and from there is spectacular
though. Mountains green, mountains red, mountains white.. Amazing.


After my exploring of Quba and Khinaliq was over, I took of back to Baku, bought myself a ticket to
Ganja [yes, that is the name of the city, I am not joking] for an overnight train, walked a little around
Baku one more time, had some food and took off. In the train I met this Azerbaijani mother and daughter
in my plackart room that was very impressed by me travelling alone. On top of that she made her own
and her daughter’s bed, plus helped me [as if I couldn’t] and even made a bed for a man who was with
us [she did not know him, she’s just done it]. I mean, seriously, where are these kind generous people
coming from??


And now in Ganja. I have spent my morning with a book in a park because I felt it was too early to go
into hostel. Then I had some breakfast [really filled me up, probably going back there tomorrow], and
managed to walk the main attractions in a few hours. So tomorrow, I am guessing, I will be doing even
more of reading my book and not much else. Unless, of course, I will find some friends.


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Off Topic


The casino at the end of the world seems deserted. Well not totally, there are still a few gamblers there
who are not really understanding what they are doing and expecting to win big, but I am only observing
them from the distance. I don’t even have the usual desire to go in and gamble with my life. I think I’m
done. I still have a few tokens up my sleeve, surely, but aren’t we all? If anything, the casino can cease
to exist right now and I would not miss it. I would probably think about it now and again, but once you
don’t lose when you bid your highest bet, certain things become insignificant. Or at least foggy.


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