°LDU. ODSA. ACGS. Part 1°

Day No 59

I woke up early in the morning and learned that it was raining and raining pretty heavily. Everything was closed and I thought that my trip to the island of the sun was going to be either canceled or just shitty. Still, I went outside to the tour agency to leave my big bag. They told me that I should come at eight. And I did. I came at eight so I could see the doors closed, locked and no one around. I waited and waited and waited and still no one came. It was already almost time to leave with the boat to the island, so I had to move.

What saved my ass was that my ticket to the island was actually from the different company which was open, so I managed to leave my bag with them. I got on the boat and we started moving. Once we got off the boat we met our guide, which was supposed to be included in the price. Anyways, we went to the `museum` of gold, where was only one room and no gold. Pathetic kind of museum, but I entered only because I followed the guide and I would have had to pay the same amount on the other place anyways.

Here I started talking to one guy I met in Rurre and his friend. Turns out, they were Americans and were very friendly, so we kept on climbing a little up to the ruins of the beginning of Incas together and having a nice conversation. We went to the ruins, the place where everything started. Where the civilization of Incas started and where they believed the world started as well. Quite amazing, I have to tell you.

After that we moved with the American guys on the path that went from North side of the island to the South. It was supposed to be 2 hours easy walk and it was almost 3 hours hard quite fast walk. The views were amazing, but due to some reasons there will be no pictures. Sorry about that.

Once we were back to the Southern part of the island we caught our boat back and went back to the Copacabana. I took my bag from the agency, guys took their stuff from the hostel, we booked a hostel for ourselves in Cuzco and separated our ways. We were all going to Cuzco, but I bought my ticket in the other agency, so we decided to meet in the hostel the next day.

I was waiting for my minivan to go to the border and I saw another minivan together with American guys. I went, make a joke about their semi-cama bus and turned out – it was my pick up as well. So we were going to be on the same bus, not just route after all.

We went to the border, met a South African couple there, apparently they already knew them, crossed the border with no big troubles at all, caught a bigger bus and went to Puno. We only spend a little time in Puno, where we got the tickets and took an overnight bus to Cuzco. I was lucky enough to have a seat just for myself, so I put my bag under my feet and fell asleep.

Day No 60

Early in the morning we woke up in the bus, got out, packed our things and took a cab and went to the hostel. It was supposed to be a great hostel from the description on internet and it was. We got it, registered, took cold showers [for some reason it wasn’t working], left our bags in the storage room and went for some breakfast to the market.

On the way to the market I decided to take a picture of one of the squares and here it all began. I opened my bag, opened my bag for camera and found it open. I got a wave of heat in my veins. If only camera was missing, I might have left it in my big bag or something. But it was completely empty – lenses were gone too. I searched the whole bag and there is wasn’t. The ground started to slip underneath my feet.

I got up, the guys told me `hey, we were wondering where you are` and my shivering voice answered `I think I got my camera stolen`. I still was shaky and did not know what to say, what to do and how to act. They were very supportive. They went back with me to the hostel so I could check it in my big bag, even though I was sure it was not. On our way bag I couldn’t help but wonder where, when and how my camera had gone missing. The only possible place – the bus. But it seemed impossible. It was closed, it was under my feet. There is no way anybody could have taken it and still it was the only way.

Back in the hostel my camera of course wasn’t there in my big bag. It was official – I’ve been robbed for the first time in my life. And one of the most important things were taken from me – my baby, my camera. I asked the guy in the hostel where to go in case these kind of things happened, he told me I may check it with police station close to one of the squares and I left. On my way I kept on wondering how and the whole picture just did not came into one. This was insane. My camera was safe under me and I do not sleep that well in buses. How? Police told me to go back to the square and look for the police of tourism. I went back. I found a police of tourism car, I explained the guy what happened, he took me to the station.

There were two policemen in the car and on the way to the station they kept on talking to me about where I was from and so for. They actually started hitting on me and while answering to their questions I could only think  - please, this is the least I need right now – someone hitting on me. Could you just leave me alone? They were nice, really nice, but I was just so lost and sad.

Once we got off the car I asked one of the guys what are my chances. After asking if I want a truth for the answer he told me that my chances are not big. Well, of course not big, the fucker [and I am not even going to waste my time here to excuse my vocabulary] probably left the bus before we came to Cuzco and my camera was probably on sale already as I was entering the station.

I am not sure how much time I spent in the station, but it seemed ages. They asked me questions, then they were writing it all down, then they were explaining the thing to me. At points they were talking between themselves. It went something like that `so, the same model. The overnight bus from Puno to Cuzco. While sleeping, the camera got stolen from the bag`. I asked if that was not the first time and they said that unfortunately this happens quite often. They also told me that they will contact me if something comes up and let me go.

As I have been there, one guy came with all of his documents stolen, another guy with his pistol stolen and one more with, what I’m guessing was a more serious crime, because he seemed really lost in space and he spent more time there then the rest. So I guess I can give you the most practical tip in here. In South America, whatever you do, have ALL OF YOUR valuables not only with you in the bus [I think that if I left my camera in `registered` bag I would still have it], but also wrap your arms around it. You may look stupid, but trust me, you don’t want to be in my position.

I walked around the station looking for an ATM, since I had no idea where I was, I had no map and I needed to get back. I found a mini bus that was going to the center, got in, paid 0.70 Soles for the trip and finally was back in the hostel. I found guys in the hostel and they told me they left some eggs and fruit salads for me for breakfast in the fridge. Such a lovely thing to do. I was so happy I was with someone there. Because if not, I would have probably started crying like a baby.

So the rest of the day went like a foggy nightmare. I went through my bag and realized that the fucker was unbelievably skilled. Even though he missed my money in my bag, but he took the charger from another pocket of my bag. If that wasn’t enough, he also took my phone [crappy phone, but the principle is involved] and, on top of that, he also took my knife. My dad’s knife. I was so angry, I would have probably beaten him with the shoe if I only met him.

So I tried several phones to call to my telephone company, so I could block my phone. I went for a little walk around the city, but I just felt miserable and wanted nothing. Nothing seemed right. I felt as I have lost one of the most important things for me in the trip. How do I make pictures? And yes, I have my little tiny compact camera, but that is not the same. I don’t even know how to make pictures with it anymore.

I felt down. Very much down.

But it was a Super Bowl Sunday. And I was spending time with Americans. So we had an American style dinner [hotdogs with the delicious Peruvian cheese sauce], some rom and coke, some beers and a game I do not completely understand. But before game finished my emotional status, lack of sleep, tiredness and alcohol kicked in and I went to sleep.

Bed, by the way, in this hostel, was unbelievably nice. Very comfortable and clean and awesome in general. In general the hostel is so awesome, we fell in love with it right away. So, if you ever come to Cuzco, TAKE CARE of your stuff and stay in Pariwana hostel. You won’t regret. I give you my word.

Day No 61

I woke up in the morning more or less feeling better then the day before. I went for breakfast, found Garrett there. We talked a little, ate a little and I was waiting for the banks to open. I had to pay 3.6 Soles and go back to the police and get a copy of my report. I knew my insurance is not going to cover my loss, but in case I needed it, I might as well have it.

So after breakfast I left for the bank. I had to stand in the longest possible queue to pay and I kept on waiting. Once paid, I took a better map and decided to walk to the police station. It wasn’t that far away.

Once in the station, I once again, spent half of the day waiting. While I was waiting I saw some more people there. Some girl with her phone and cards stolen, a Russian guy with his ALL documents and money and cards stolen, another two guys with their passports stolen. I cannot say it made me feel better I am not the only one, but it’s good to know that it’s not just my `luck` that struck.

Once I was back in the city, I went to the train office, so I could find information about how to get to Machu Picchu. I met South African couple there, and we kept on talking that we are not sure which option to take and how to go there. It seemed hard. You can go by train, but it’s expensive and you have to catch the but first. You can go by bus, but you have to change 3 buses and in the end you have to walk 2 hours.

Once out of the office we were caught by some guy, who was offering `Machu Picchu by car, 2 days 1 night all included – 85$`. Seemed a little too good to be true, but we decided to take a look at it. It seemed normal – it was an office, seemed an ok office, the price was so low because there is no train involved, plus it was for students, so we booked it.

Since I was a little paranoid for understandable reasons and so were they, we checked online if maybe that is a scam. Since we found nothing, we went back, paid for it and hoped for the best. We went to the market, had a meal for 1EUR, got back to the hostel and relaxed.

In the evening I joined Americans with two more friends and we went out to look for a place to eat. We ended up in an Irish pub, where we met another American from our room with some friends. I ended up having a beer and talking to one very nice and interesting Canadian man [he as a daughter who is 15, so it’s hard for me to call him `guy`]. We talked about everything. About men and women, about civil engineering, food, travelling. I really enjoyed the conversation.

Once back in the hostel we joined South Africans in the bar, had a beer, played some table football [still don’t know how it is spelled correctly - foosball?] and once the bar was closed, I went to sleep.

Day No 62

I woke up in the morning, had a shower, woke up my companions, grabbed fast breakfast and we left for the office. We were there as informed – 7.30 in the morning. There were only people like me, no one in charge. I started panicking a little.

But about half an hour late the bus showed up, we got it and we started our trip to Aquas Calientes, the little town next to the Machu Picchu. Of course, the trip did not go well. After couple of hours of a ride we were forced to stop because a bridge over the river broke. Well, that must be fun, right. There is not other way to the place we needed. So we waited for workers to put some kind of the bridge for people to crossed, crossed the river, caught a but and went to Santa Teresa, where we had to have lunch and apparently another guide was supposed to take care of us. Well, that bus was going for about 1.5 hours, crossing some rivers and waterfalls and everything and then he stopped. There was a messy mud kind of the thing on the road that he couldn’t cross.

So we had to walk around 40 minutes to the Santa Teresa. Which was a nice walk, but it was raising the `ok, so what’s next` in everybody’s heads. We got lunch, but we couldn’t get a guide. Instead we got another van, who took us to the Hidroelectrica kind of a thing and we had to walk 2 hours till Aquas Calientes.

We were having a great time going there. We were talking and joking, and standing on the bridge while the train was passing. We were taking pictures of worms and insects for Justine’s brother. We had fun. But it was a rather long walk. Together it took us around 3 hours to get to the town and it was already dark once we were there.

We found the main square once we were there, we found others from our group, we waited some more and finally another guide showed up. He guided us to the hostel, explained us all about the trip, gave us the tickets and here – another surprise. We needed passports or other IDs in order to get train tickets back. I had mine, but my companions didn’t. so we decided to save 12USD and instead of taking that train to walk the same 2 hours walk.

We went to the market, bought some snacks for the next day, had supper and soon after that went to sleep. Our day was already long and tiring and even a longer one was waiting for us the next day.

Day No 63

My cruel alarm clock woke me up before 4 a.m., I woke up my companions, we got ready and went for breakfast. Breakfast turned out to be hot water, maybe some coffee or tee [we saw nothing of that] and some soup [we saw nothing of that either]. Tired of waiting, we just went to the store, bought some cereal bars and in the middle of the rainy dark morning went towards the Machu Picchu.

It took us 25 minutes to get from Aquas Calientes to the entrance of the mountain that leads you to Machu Picchu. It took us 50 hard minutes to climb up to the entrance of Machu Picchu. Honestly, as some points I thought I was going to die.

Once there we got in, waited for the guide and finally entered the miracle, better known as Machu Picchu, or `The old mountain`. I have to say – it is pretty exciting to be there and to see it. So if you have a chance – do it. It is expensive to enter [45$ for adults, 23$ for students], but it is worth it.

We had around 2 hours of guided tour to the main places and explanations about the whole place. It was still raining and it was still very cold. So at some point we decided to eat our chocolates that we bought the day before as a snack. I cannot explain you how, but it kind of saved us. Honestly is seemed as my eyes cleared up and the world got new colours in it. So another traveling tip for you – always have a bar of chocolate with you. It might save you at points.

Once the guided tour was over, we had our time to walk around. So we walked to the place called `Inca bridge`, we had some nice views of the mountains and all, we even got some sun and warmth and around 11a.m. we went down – we still had to make that 2 hours walk back and catch something and is better known as `hopefully just one bus back to Cuzco`.

Going down all of the 1824 steps was easier but still a little hard. Once at the bottom we made some sandwiches we ate on our way and started our journey back to Hidroelectrica.

We found a minivan down there and got it. We started moving and it all looked pretty promising. But of course, at the same broken bridge there was a traffic jam. If that wasn’t enough, they made us chance a bus. We were the lucky ones, because as least we got into the bus. While one couple from Israel, who were not in the list apparently, stayed outside.

After an hour or so we started moving and finally, after some long hours in the van trying to sleep, we got back to the Cuzco. We went to our hostel, checked in once again, went out for KFC [nothing else was open] for a quick dinner, had showers and went to sleep. The long and exciting day was finally over.

Day No 64

Once awaken, I went out for breakfast and waited for guys. We were supposed to go to some ruins around and I sounded promising so I decided to join. But the guys were partying the night before so they were still asleep. After some waiting, I just went for a walk. I walked around the city, finally decided to go to the bus terminal and buy the ticket for my next destination [still had no idea where I am going to go]. I decided to ask about Nazca, and met a guy who was going the same direction. So we went around, asked for the prices, found the cheapest possible option, booked the tickets and shared a cab back to the center.

Once back in the center, I went to the market had a delicious meal for a little more than one Euro, bought a nice [it is an important thing when you travel], bought some olives and cheese and bread for dinner and it started to rain. I went back to the hostel, talked to the guys and decided to join them for the massage.

For 13 Soles we got a one hour full body massage with hot stones. I can be honest here – it wasn’t so great as Thai massage, but it was awesome for the relaxation. I enjoyed it a lot. And those hot stones – they are good. Do it. If you ever get a chance.

Once back in the hostel, i met Mat and Justine who were leaving the very same day, so we chatted for the last time, said our goodbyes and I went on reading a book.