The week past incredibly fast and there was already the long weekend. The long weekend or, in my world, better known as – the weekend which, I had this strange sense, will be awesomely unbelievably great.
Traveling tip: if you go anywhere in Chile, the longer distance, I mean, buy your bus tickets in advance. Even if there are buses every 5-6 minutes [no kidding], they are usually all full and booked on the day of departure.
So since I was smart enough to have a ticket already, I had my ordinary Friday. Spanish in the morning, work in the afternoon, some jogging after that. Then I packed my things, checked my e-mails for the last time for the updates for the hosting and left. I still haven’t received the details of my future host in La Serena, but I was optimistic about it. I left him my phone number, so I was sure I will hear from him soon. Maybe even that evening. Maybe early the next morning.
I said goodbye to the family, took the elevator down and took my turn for the metro. Friday night and it is still awfully full. Go figure. Oh well, either way, I went to my bus terminal a little early, but I did not want to be late, besides, I was a little afraid to be late for the last metro and let’s face it – I was not going to take cab. Almost like in the song, I was taking almost a midnight vehicle. My bus was supposed to leave 23:59 according to the time table. We still haven’t figured out why it was not midnight straight, but then again, you can never have answers to all of the questions. I knew that there are several night buses that goes to La Serena, but I had no idea it was so many. Every 5 or 6 minutes buses left for the exact the same city. And the surprising thing – they were all full.
My bus arrived, I entered it and we left just couple of minutes after the midnight. My night was supposed to be short, but I was hoping to get the maximum possible amount of sleep in the bus, so I could survive the whole day in La Serena and do something fun. I waited for the guy to come and collect my information and then drifted to sleep. Max 5 hours of sleep I had to use them wisely.
The plan worked pretty great. I slept most of the time in the bus, until the point where I was woken up and told that we are arriving to La Serena. My day starts again. I remembered having `desayuno` in my ticket, that means breakfast and I was curious am I going to get some. Turned out – I did. I got a cookie. Yeah, don’t laugh, apparently this is breakfast in this country.
It was 6 a.m. when I left the bus. It was going to be a loooong day. Ok so, first thing I did – was to walk around but terminal to see if they have a map. And well, of course they don’t. I left the terminal and started walking to the area which was pointed to as `el centro`. Then I realized that it is still dark and the best thing for me to do is to go to the beach and wait for the sunrise. Now I know what you might think – but Chile faces Pacific on the west side, so sunrise is not going to be visible or worth to see there. I know that. Or better yet – I know that now. I blame the lack of sleep and sleeping in a bus for the lack of efficiency of my brains. Somehow I saw that is was starting to get lighter on one side of the sky and I figured – that is where the sea must be. Yes, I can be that stupid sometimes.
So I went to the totally opposite direction without even knowing it. And the thing is – I would have realized my mistake almost ride away, because I was going up a hill, but since it was dark – I saw nothing, so I just kept on walking. `This cannot be right` thought crossed my mind couple of times, but I was sure the dawn must be on the right side, so I kept going. The final hint hit me when I got to the crossroad telling me the number of the road. Something was up, I was sure about it. I checked the map I had – and oh.. would you look at that – I was going east, not west.
So I did the following – cursed a lot, took my jacket off and went down. Still cursing a little. It was not dark anymore, so after walking of 3-4 minutes I saw the ocean. On the totally different side. Well, this day was just getting better and better. I had no other choice – I went down. It took me a while to get to the ocean, but I did. First time so close to the Pacific. We can cross that off the list.
I walked a little on an empty beach, had some breakfast [not just cookie], made some pictures. The beach was pretty awful. Sand was dirty and dark, a lot of pieces of shelved all around it. It was very windy and cold. I could only hope it will get warmer as the sun comes higher up. The thing I liked in that beach was a lighthouse. A simple one, with no unnecessary details, pretty great.
I checked my `book` about La Serena and decided to take a walk in the city center. After all, I already made a deal with myself – I will spend today easy, just walking and the real thing I will start tomorrow. The city seems very nice, cute and homish [don’t know if that’s a word]. It was still early on Saturday morning, so I was one of the exceptions in the streets. I walked around, took some pictures, sat at the park for a little while. It is like a small cozy silent Spanish city with thick brick walls and simple churches. I really liked it.
I walked a little more when I saw some sort of a street market. Decided to enter. Better then nothing, right? So there I saw the place where you can sell all the crap you can imagine and you can buy it. They had everything. But like literally – everything. Amazing. If you need some crap – go to La Serena and look for it in the street that goes around city park. At the very end of that `market`I found a boy selling empanadas. So I bought one. I felt hungry. And I bought one with meat. How I know it? Because the guy asked me twice if I wanted it with meat. But when I tried it – well, ok, it did have some meat, but it was basically empanada with onions and a little of meat.
I walked a little more around the center and decided to sit down at the park and maybe read some book. I was still waiting for my host to inform me about where and when I should show up in order to be hosted. At the park, well of course, it’s always the same scenario, isn’t it, some older guy, who was selling cookies and drinks there, tried to talk to me. After he asked me where I was from, he told me he had a book about ex Soviet Union and maybe I could translate it to him one day. I said maybe [what else was I supposed to say]. As around that time a girl, who I was supposed to meet a little later send me a message, congratulation on coming to La Serena. I told her I was still waiting for the answer from my possible host and that if I do not hear from him, I will just find a hostel and then call her about the meeting. She told me I can stay with her and she came to pick me up. Just like that. Got to love couchsurfing.
So just like that, just after 15 minutes, she came to the center with a car, picked me up and we were going to her place. She looked like a girl from the profile – laid-back and easy going conversationalist. She took me to the house where she lives temporarily with her family, gave me a room [!!], showed me a little around and we left – for the beach.
We sat on the sand, talked a little about this and that, took some pictures, took a walk, talked some more. It was an easy going day and I was enjoying it. Wasn’t feeling that sleepy even. We went to the beach coffee place, took some coffee and then went to her mom’s restaurant for lunch. I had a fish [don’t ask me the name] and some salad. Not trying to sound too nice, but with all of the honest, it was sooo good, I can hardly find words for it. I loved every piece of it. It made it so clear that her mom is an excellent cook. After lunch she asked me if I wanted something sweet and my face just could not hide it. I told her I have a little addiction for sweets, she told that to her mom and at the end – I got a plate full of sweets. All really good. This is something that is still a misery for me here – sweets are amazing. Not too sweet, but really good. I could only eat them and be happiest person in the world.
After the lunch we got to Natalia’s place to change and stuff and hit the road. We were going to some special place she promised to take me to watch stars, since while talking on a couchsurfing we realized we have the same passion for stars and the area around La Serena apparently has one of the clearest skies in the world. We were going and I was very much enjoying all of the mountains and fields around. Amazing how little is needed just to feel happy.
On mid-way to the place we were going Natalia took a little turn. She took me to her secret place. We were going up and up on a not so good road, but thanks to her brilliant car we had no troubles at all. We got to the top point and oh my, you have to see it before you can believe it. Anywhere you turn – mountains, mountains, mountains. And moon. The day moon. The good sign. That view literally can take your breath away. Truly amazing place.
Traveling tip: if you come to La Serena area try to find this secret place. It is close to Vicuña little town. But be aware – you will need a car to get there.
We stayed there for a bit. We watched the moon, we talked some more, we had some beer. It was a fantastic place, one of the best I have ever been to. And it is special as well, because this is the place that not a lot of people know and not everyone is being brought here by couchsurfing friends. I felt special as well.
We moved forward to the place, called Elqui Valley. There is no need for traveling tips – all of the tourists go there. On our way we talked about my addiction to sweets again and she told me that her aunt is working there and making sweets. One of the cakes I tried at her mom’s restaurant, was made by this aunt. So we tried to come. We got good news – aunt was making Natalia’s favorite thing, but we will have to come later. Well, of course, we can do that.
We went on. It was unbelievable views again and again – like a non-stop thing. High mountains from both – left and right and then valley in between. Seriously, you have to see it before you realize it. I cannot explain it. I am not even sure I could have taken pictures that explains it. Oh well.
We got to Pisco Elqui – the main point in the area where tourists gather and some locals live. Here I tried the famous Pisco drink [like a Chilean brandy]. It was good, somehow reminded me of the similar of the ones I tried before but then again – I am not an expert on these types of drinks. It probably had to be good.
While we were there it became dark and we hit the road back. On our way back we stopped at Natalia’s aunt place for the favorite sweet of hers. My oh my, I am completely honest here, it was so good, I almost swallowed my tongue. Not too sweet, with some chocolate and some cherries and… well, if was so great that I could not stop eating and everyone around just cannot believe how I can eat so much of it. But I really loved it.
We made another stop, just next to the river with a sky, full of stars. It was not the perfect night, because it was almost full moon so it was hiding at least half of the stars. Oh well. We still had a great night – watching some stars, talking some more before it was time to get back home.
That’s where it hit me – the sleep. On our way back. I was trying my best to keep my eyes open but it was almost simply impossible. I was literally falling asleep. Fast and strong. I tried my best not to, but it was still hard. But we got into the small shop before going home, took couple of beers and ended up evening in the kitchen enjoying beers and talking some more. It was great. I could not have been happier with the fact that a guy who was supposed to host me disappeared completely. I knew I got it even better than I could have ever hoped.
The next day. Sunday.
It started to me by waking up and taking a shower. To my surprise when I got back to my room, I found `breakfast to the bed` full service. I had little sandwiches, some more sweets and some tea in my room. For breakfast. Got to love that family.
After I got dressed up and ate, I talked a little to Natalia, she borrowed a bike for me from her cousin and I left for Coquimbo. It’s a small port 11 kilometers from La Serena. They have a great road for bikes just next to the beach, so I just took it. I was riding a bike, making some stops, taking some pictures. When I arrived to Coquimbo, it became very much clear that people there are living for the market. Well, maybe it was so because it was Sunday. But there were sooo many people that it was hard to go through with a bike. I finally decided against it. I did a little circle around the city and then went to the port to make some more pictures of boats and birds.
After some time I had to go back, because a traditional Chilean lunch in traditional family was waiting for me. I got to the beach of La Serena, met Natalia and stayed with here there a bit. I decided, after all, to go to the `Isla Damas` and we decided to go to the center and book a tour for me for the next day.
Traveling tip. Trust me on this one – save your time, money and energy and do not try to go there on your own. Unless you have a care and at least 8 people with you. Because buses don’t go to the Puerto Chores [where are fishermen that can take you to the island], you pay for the boat, not for the passenger and even financially – it sometimes is better just to book a tour in La Serena. They take you from where you live, show it all to you, explain even more and bring you back. My advice is – book it at `Elqui Valley Tour`. They have office just across the Cathedral, so you won’t miss it. And no, they are not paying me for advertising them. And if you are lucky – you will get a driver/guide/care taker/photographer/all in one Roberto. He explains about where you go, what you see, takes care of you and makes you trip real satisfactory.
So we went to the center, I booked the tour and we went back to her place. After a little while we had to go to the table. It was like a typical traditional Chilean family – a lot of people, all talking fast and loud Spanish and a lot of food on the table. We started with something, I cannot tell you the name, because I forgot, but some sort of mollusks or shell-fish, with some cheese and some spices and maybe something more. Whatever that was – it tasted real good. I was eating and I was thinking that if I had to stay here longer, I would definitely gain some weight. There was all of the other food around: rice, chicken, beef, avocado, beans …. No end to the list, really. And it all was really good. I enjoy every bite of it. Of course, after I was completely full, there was time for dessert and they gave me a full bowl of ice-cream. It was really good ice-cream, but so much that it made my body shiver of cold. Imagine the amount, then.
After lunch Natalia went for a little siesta and I went out to play with her dog Minie, who was very adorable and just seeking for love. After siesta Natalia took me to another place. First we took a break in the beach called Totarilillo.
Traveling tip: if you get a chance – go there. Playa Totarilillo. Amazing view from the up, pretty nice beach itself, possibility to surf and some rocks around you can climb.
We sat there on a beach for a while, talked a little, watched almost full day moon up in the sky, played some beggamon [or how is that greek-turkish game called?]. it was a very nice relaxation. After a little bit it started to be a little cold, so we packed and went a little more to the south to the fishermen’s village Guanaqueros. It’s a small hilly, but nice village next to the ocean, where most people just fish. But…
Traveling tip: if you get a chance, try to enter this ordinary and simply looking `restaurant` on the main street for some `empanadas con marisco y queso` - those are the same traditional typical empanadas, only with sea food and cheese. We both were not hungry really, but she just wanted one because they are the best in at least north of Chile and I just had to try it. So I tried it. And oh my oh my, it tasted soo good. I enjoyed it very much.
After this the program of the day was almost over. We just took couple of beers in the shop and ended up, just like last night, in her kitchen drinking beer and talking. I am not going to unload what we were talking, but it made me realize some things. I may not still get it completely, but I know it make sense. And also – she helped me to answer some questions that I could not get answered since the 5th day of my stay here in Chile. It was a very deep and educational evening.
The next day. Monday.
Since I had to go on a trip and no one from the house didn’t and it was a holiday Monday, I tried to be as silent as possible. I went downstairs, took some breakfast and left the house. I had no troubles at all. I was a little afraid I am not going to find my way to the center so easily, but I had to try, right? Turned out – it was easier than I thought. I came to the office where I was supposed to be picked up earlier than needed, so I just waited at the door. At the same time some more people came and I felt a little relieved knowing that I am not the only one.
After some time the driver, Roberto, came with a mini-bus, picked us up and we hit the road. Turned out, the driver is also a guide and everything you might need. He told us a little about the area, about the flowers and seaside and drove to the Puerto de Chores, where we had to take a boat to get to the Isla Damas. The ride itself was easy and the views were amazing. Again – hills and mountains and ocean – and still amazing and exciting.
We all got into the boat once we were at the port and started our trip. It was explained to us, that it is possible that we are not going to see dolphins, since they might not be at the area and it was literally killing my optimism. Anyways, we first were going around another island, can’t remember the name, but it belongs to the same national park, so if you go there – you see it. We were watching birds, penguins and sea lions on our way, taking pictures, way too many pictures of all of the animals. And they seemed to be used to the attention – they start somewhat posing and making funny expressions with their faces.
We were going slowly until the point our guide Roberto told us that dolphins were noticed in one point and if we did not mind – we will cut the trip here and go for the dolphins. Everyone was for it, so we went. It was amazing. I was sure that if we see the dolphins that will be from a very long distance, just little spots in the horizon, but they were right here, almost touchable. Some of them swam so close to the boat that I was afraid we might hit them with an engine or something. They were all around our boat. And showing off, of course, making some jumps. Everyone was trying to take pictures, but it’s just so hard, because once they jump, it only takes several parts of the second and then they are gone under water. We even saw two dolphins acting a little strange so our guide told us `They are making love!`. I bet that is not so easy to see. I felt special again.
After the dolphins we moved around a little the same island, watching some more of sea lions and then came to the Isla Damas. The only island you can actually step on. We only had one hour in the island, so I, advised by Natalia and our guide, took a little path that was going to another beach. Another beach, that you can easily call a paradise. A little tiny paradise. Oh, if only you could spend night there.. since I was fast, when I got there, I was the only one in. so I just sat down, watching the white sand, rocks and water and played with soap bubbles. I was alone in the paradise. And I enjoy every second of it.
The time past very quick and we had to get back. We took the same boat and got back to the continent. We were taken to the restaurant where, I was surprised, waited a full great lunch for us. I even got beer, then empanada with seafood and cheese. For the main course I ate grilled fish [very well tasting fish I may add] and I was lucky enough to sit next to our guide and a nice couple from The Netherlands. So we talked about traveling, about places in Chile and etc. so not only did I have a nice lunch, I also had it with great company.
On our way back we stopped for some dunes and then moved for La Serena.
I just closed my eyes only for a second there in the bus, but when I opened them, we were almost in the place. I got off a little closer to Natalia’s place and started walking towards her house. Once I got back, we went out for some simple shopping. On our way we saw this amazingly large and nice colored sun, that we decided to make the shopping a little later and go for the sunset.
Do I need to mention we were late? Sun in extremely fast in here. Two minutes and it was gone. We went to the beach and it was already over. We stopped for a coffee anyways. Just to enjoy the last minutes of it.
After we went to the shop, got back home, listened to some music, had, once again, some amazingly tasting dinner [how those people manage it, I don’t get it], listened to some music again.
It was time for me to go. So I packed my things and Natalia took me to the bus terminal. In the terminal she bought me some dried papayas, since I haven’t had a chance to try them in the city, I had to try them. I promised to let her know how they were. She helped me to find a but and we said our goodbyes. Great girl, really. I am definitely going to miss her. Good news – she is coming to Santiago. So most probably we will meet again.
In the bus, I knew again, I have a very limited time to sleep, but I also knew that if I fall asleep before the guys comes and collects my information, it will be hard for him to wake me up. So I was just sitting there, waiting for him to come. I only closed my eyes for a second and before I knew it – he was waking me up, asking for the information. Amazing, really, although I really was tired.
Well, after that I drifted off to sleep. It wasn’t such a great sleep, though. I don’t know what the hell is wrong with the buses here, but it was so cold… I was in my sweater and jacket and still freezing cold. Good man was sitting next to me so he offered me a blanket. Such a sweet guy. So.. Traveling tip: if you buy a ticket for the bus in Chile – ask for aisle seat, not window. So if it is cold as it usually is there, you at least could get up and take the blanket before waking up or disturbing anyone. And if you know you will want to sleep in the bus – take the most front possible seat – the guy will collect your info faster.
At the very end, instead of promised 6 a.m. the bus came to Santiago 8.20 a.m. which would not be too bad if I hadn’t had to be at the office at 10 a.m. well, that is just great, isn’t it? I took a completely full metro [where all these people come from, I have no idea] and was still thinking if I should go straight to the office or maybe I could make it to home and shower. I ended up with the shower and home plan. What the hell.
I managed. I came to work maybe 5 minutes late, but according to Chilean time – it does not mean being late. I survived the full day of training and got back home completely tired, but somehow happy.
La Serena was a great experience. Greater than I expected. I can highly recommend it to anyone!
Off Topic
I had several very strange dreams. And some of them – I don’t mind. But that one.. Made me literally sick. And even though I know that particular thing really is impossible, but what if? Don’t know if I am ready for this. Don’t know if I can handle.
Sometimes I just wish you were completely honest about it. Or the opposite, completely kept it to yourself. Sometimes I just wish it was different, you know? Sometimes I wish you only kept your word. Or did not make that promise.
Here you are again and here I am again thinking about it. Amazing. The same old stupid scenario. It’s just that we are in the different theaters. I cannot claim anymore it is not going to happen. I may have changed my mind.
Now I get it. Parts of it, anyways. But the most important part – it does make sense. I may not be completely there yet, but it so does make sense. We’ll take it from here.
I will always be your sweetest downfall. You loved me first.
I think I’m going to gamble. G’night.
