10 Sept 2018

.Chapter eight: The wonders of Sakartvelo.

Kids, don't do what I did. Do not book a hostel with great reviews for a very cheap price. You will end up in the place where shower is not being cleaned for at least three days and your breakfast will not arrive because a guy who is working there was drinking until 7 a.m. and simply did not wake up to make it for you.

Sakartvelo [or Georgia, if you will] is a beautiful country, full of things to offer. On my second day in Sighnaghi I went on a wine tour with a Chinese guy from my guest house. We visited three different wineries, tasted don't know how many different wines and chachas, went to a monastery and a lake to cool down. By the time we got back, it was already time for a late dinner which we ate and called it a night - drinking wine all day gets you somewhat tired.

The next on the list - Tbilisi and it did not disappoint. An interesting capital, mix of modern and old, soviet and classic, nature and buildings. I have spent three days wondering around, visiting castle, the statue of Mother of Georgians, endless old town streets. It is really hard to describe this city, you simply have to visit it and experience what it is made of. And it is made of lots of good foods, pretty views, parks and museums. 

Three days passed really quickly and then it was my first meeting of Georgian mountains - I went to the big Mr. Kazbegi. I didn't climb this mister, I do not have enough experience or wish to do so. On the first day, since I only came in the afternoon the only thing I visited was a mineral water spring and a pool next to it. But later in a day I made a new friend, Dutch guy living in the Kiwi land for a long time, and in the evening we went out for dinner and there I made even more friends. So the next day my two new friends and I went to see the glacier. Website said that the trek was challenging and my two new friends have been climbing for way longer than I am, so I was just hoping not to die. It was a quite steep climb of 1600 meters elevation [and then we had to go down, of course]. I survived! But it took us around 9 hours in total, but we did add the little church on a hill to it and my new found friends told me I did very good for an inexperienced trekker. Me and Andre [one of my new found friends] went for a well deserved beer after the trek and then in the evening we again met up with the rest for the dinner. Next day in Kazbegi I have decided to visit a Truso valley. It was supposed to be an easy stroll walk kind of a thing of 22 kilometers and beautiful views. The valley delivered. The first part of it may have been a little boring, but once you get around the corner.. Man, it is beautiful. And to top it off at the end of it there is an old ruined fortress where two armed guys will stop you and will tell you: no go, further - border. 

After Kazbegi, just like everyone else, I also went back to Tbilisi. There I have managed to go visit the Tbilisi sea [but not in a perfect beach weather so it was only OK], public sulfur bath [note - if you are a woman DO NOT go to the public one, or else you will end up with several older Russian fattish ladies, where one of them will shave her ..mmm.. right there] and took a free walking tour, just because I thought I was missing a lot from the old town. Turns out - I did not. I visited most of the places by myself already before, but it was very useful to hear what is what and listen to more details about the things. 

And then it was finally time for my "big" walk, so test myself before I go and die while trying to walk Annapurna circuit - the famous Mestia-Ushguli walk in Svaneti area for 4 days. First I took a bus to Mestia, got myself into a hostel and spend a half lazy day, reading a book, shopping for the snacks for the tomorrow's hike, meeting with Nick for dinner and going to sleep at a fairly early hour. I have started my walk very early in the morning and probably I shouldn't have - for several reasons. First of all, I finished that day's walk at 12.15, and second of all, because I have managed to meet a Georgian old fat creep who tried to hug me [and not let go] and kiss me and so on an so forth. And we were in the middle of a trek, no people or houses around. That definitely put a damper on my walk and views. If that wasn't enough, a dog decided to harass me as well. I did not have a great first day. But, on the other hand, the views were amazing, the day was clear and sunny and once I finished with the day, I had all that time to read my book. And I spent evening with Nick and new found friends - couple from Israel.

The second day I have walked by myself again - I feel like I kind of need that in order to let my mind wander and take it's own course. It was a short, but fairly steep in climbing day, but I have managed to finish it before everyone else again and settled in the guest house waiting for the others. The night was really cold though, so in the end I went to bed at a super early hour.

On the third day we went off all together, walked a very beautiful valley up until the point where we had to cross a river. Two options - barefoot in freezing water or horse. I took a horse. I am afraid of those things, but barefoot with all my things on my back in a strong stream just did not sound like a great idea. Then we had to climb a hill which presented super views from the top. Too bad we did not have much time to enjoy them, as the cloud came on us and it started raining [with hail I may add]. So we rushed to go down as fast as we could without falling. At the bottom the sun was shinning again and then there was only a nice walk in the valley again. We split our ways there, going to different guest houses. And that night, as the sky was super clear, I have seen the most amazing sky, full of stars and clearly identifiable Milky Way in my entire life.

On the last day of the walk I reached Ushguli, a village full with one-day tourists as well and settled in the most homey guest house there is. They invited me to sit with them, gave me food [for free] and chacha [I should have said no, but they are very persistent that you drink]. The lady of the house was constantly working, but always with the smile on her face. I really enjoyed my stay there. 

And now, today, as the rain keeps pouring down, all I managed was to sit in a car [waiting for more people to go to Mestia] for few hours, then take a ride to Mestia and sit down in the hostel. There is no point going outside, because there is no outside. It's only rain and clouds and mist and more rain. 

This marks the end of my affair with Georgian mountains. Tomorrow I am off to Kutaisi, then Batumi and then, fingers crossed, directly to Yerevan. Let's see what life brings. 


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